Travel News South Africa

I left my heart in Dulini

Visiting an &Beyond camp is like visiting no other since being part of the &Beyond experience becomes the focus rather than the lodge. This includes being initiated into &Beyond culture by your ranger, at your first meeting.
Cheetahs get their own lunch; guests enjoy afternoon tea.
Cheetahs get their own lunch; guests enjoy afternoon tea.

This was the first time I was given the "who we are in the world" spiel by anyone other than a sales team at a tourism event. And, unexpectedly, I was glad because it put what motivated the team, what they were doing about protecting the environment and learning about their community projects while surrounded by people from the community into direct context, right at the start of our stay.

Time for tea

Just visiting.
Just visiting.

We had this briefing while enjoying a fortified afternoon tea, (lunch isn't served unless you ask for it) under the giant Jackalberry tree that overlooks the Mabrak River in Sabi Sands' Western Sector. Dulini's neighbours are Singita, Ulusaba and &Beyond's other camps in the area - Exeter River Lodge, Leadwood Lodge and Kirkman's Kamp. Dulini shares traversing rights over 10 000 hectares with other lodges.

I love the fact that there will only ever be a maximum of 10 other guests in this lodge. The six luxurious stone and thatched suites (with the most fabulous and romantic timber and marble bathrooms with slipper baths) are also within easy reach of the lodge meeting area.

All the comforts of home, and more.
All the comforts of home, and more.

The human scale of Dulini gives the impression of staying with well-to-do friends in a super comfortable guest cottage rather than at a hotel with all the impersonal things that conjures up. We also liked the fact that there were two staff to each guest which was evidenced in never having to do more than think about something lovely before a staff member would appear to assist.

Spot a leopard

The Sabi Sand is famous for its leopard sightings and we saw all the big five and even cheetah while in the area. Now that the internal fences that separated Kruger National Park from the private lodges have all but been removed, there is little guarantee that you will find what you're seeking while on game drive as the wildlife is now freer to migrate to wherever suits them. However, in my experience of visiting eight lodges in the Sabi Sand area, it's so rich in wildlife that your chances of being disappointed are very, very low.

A place to meet your fellow nine guests.
A place to meet your fellow nine guests.

On reflection we agreed that what stood out for us were the smaller details. Laundry is typically included at all-inclusive lodges but at Dulini laundry was delivered in a wicker basket and wrapped in paper with a sticker that made it look like a gift. I could see the care that someone had taken with our laundry and that translated a feeling that the staff was taking exceptionally good care of me.

Although the first pancake our ranger made us at a surprise pancake-in-the-bush stop one morning was burned (isn't it always) it was a real thrill and unexpected pleasure to arrive at a look-out to see a gas burner, laid table and a bottle of champs on ice in a silver bucket. The &Beyond team found ways to delight us at every turn and I'm going to allow them to delight you too when you visit and not tell you about the other surprises.

Simply delicious

We had an intimate candle-lit dinner in the wine cellar but I enjoy communal dinners around the fire pit more and relish the opportunity to get to know fellow travellers. I enjoyed everything we were served and liked that they didn't try to overreach themselves with culinary gymnastics which so often, unfortunately, fall short. The food was simple but delicious. Inasmuch as a place can capture one's heart, Dulini had ours.

Fully inclusive rates are from R4200 per person sharing. For more information go to www.andbeyondafrica.com or call +27 (0) 11 809 4300.

About Brian Berkman: contributing editor, travel

Brian Berkman can be contacted on 083-441-8765 or email moc.namkreBnairB@nairB.
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